Extrusion Welder Basics
I have, for the past
several years, been
teaching Concrete
Protective Liner welding
and Geomembrane
welding both
for novice welders
and “old timers”.
During the classroom
portion, we
discuss the basics
of plastics, which
are weldable and the
basics of the welding
equipment we will be
using, also what is required
to make a successful
weld. Once we begin the
welder testing portion the old
adage that I mention at the beginning
of each test session almost always
becomes fact. That is that the person who has
been welding the longest usually is the first to fail or the
last one to pass the examinations.
The more years we do plastic welding the more we lose
concentration on the basics taught to us “oh so many
years ago”. We tend to concentrate more on the need to
get the job or weld done quickly because time is money.
We know subconsciously that the most expensive bad
welds are those we have to re-weld after the project is finished
or are discovered during the final inspection, or in
the worst case, begins leaking after the structure is put
into full operation, when all the equipment is at another
job site and the welders are in another state.
There are several reasons for this: -
We take short cuts on the preparation; we do not
wipe down the weld area to make sure it is free of any
form of liquids or hydrocarbons such as water, form oils,
sling or lifting strap greases, etc.
- We do a quick passover with the sanding disc, we do
not take the time to make sure that we have removed all
the oxidized area and are welding virgin material.
- We think we can weld over the “ever so slight damp
spot”, knowing that moisture and plastic welds do not go
together. We know that we have to have a clean dry weld
area if the weld is to be good.
- We think we do not need to preheat the beginning of
the weld area; we can just pick up the extrusion welder
and begin the weld. We need to take the extra 5-10 seconds
to let the preheat soak into the initial weld area and
this will carry forward for the whole weld.
- We think we do not need to purge the extrudate from
the welder shoe; we do not need to preheat the weld
shoe. Anytime we pick up an extruder after it has been
sitting we need to purge the extrudate from the barrel: at
least the material that is forward of the heat blanket
approximately three to four inches.
- We think we can use just any welding rod, even the
welding rod that has been sitting in the back of the truck
during the rain the
night before. Welding
rod has to be treated
with care. It needs
to kept clean and
dry, try putting
each roll in a
kitchen garbage
bag when in storage.
Have you ever
had the weld area
“pop” back at you
when welding, or
shown signs of dimples
- you may have
damp welding rod.
I have on many occasions
had an examinee or welder
fail a coupon test due only to
two things (assuming that he has his
temperatures set correctly) purge his
welder and count to ten with his preheat. If he
had done this, his test results would have been good.
Written by Larry Rowold who operates the Plastic
Welding School, 1010 Vermont Ave., The Villages, FL
32159, 352-259-7103, E-mail: larryrowold@aol.com,
Web: www.plasticweldingschool.org.
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